The sudden jolt shifted my camera bag to the middle of the dugout canoe. It was that time again to get out and help push the heavy dugout across the gravel bar. It was the end of the dry season, this would become a common experience and would be re-enacted several times during our 1.5-hour journey up the Rio San Miguel River to get to the Embera village. There were 3 of us in the canoe, my guide upfront with a long pole and one of the villagers in the back to operate the 15hp motor. In Panamá the indigenous people were never forced into boarding schools nor punished for speaking their language or practicing their cultural traditions. In fact, the tribes were ignored and not even counted in the census of Panama and not recognized as citizens nor given the right and access to education until 1975! There is one benefit that resulted from the Emberá being ignored for so long, and that is that their language, culture, traditions, villages, and lifestyle are still intact. I was now heading to one such village where I only had time to spend the night before heading to my main destination in Brazil.
 

Loin Cloth©Kieron Nelson 2015 "Vanishing Cultures Photography" All rights reserved

Weight approximately 160 lbs©Kieron Nelson 2015 "Vanishing Cultures Photography" All rights reserved

The money for outboard motors is raised through tourism. The men sport "bowl cut" hairstyles, and when not in towns, still wearing nothing but a minimal loincloth.

                            

The village is built on a small rise, set approximately 100 feet in from the river. The houses of the village are set about 20–50 feet apart atop the rise on posts, with no walls, but tall thatched roofs.
 

Cooking Rice

©Kieron Nelson 2015 "Vanishing Cultures Photography" All rights reserved

The floor is made of split black palm trunks or cana blanca (white cane), and have a kitchen built on a clay platform about three feet square; on top of this base, they build a fire, supporting cooking pots over the fire with a tripod of sturdy sticks

Jagua

Finished©Kieron Nelson 2015 "Vanishing Cultures Photography" All rights reserved

Completely CoveredJagua tattoos penetrate and stain the top skin layer, and in the case of jagua the colour develops and darkens over several days until blue-black.	Mother and DaughterJagua tattoos penetrate and stain the top skin layer, and in the case of jagua the colour develops and darkens over several days until blue-black.
Black dyeThey paint their bodies with a dye made from Genipa americana, the berry of a species of genip tree. The black dye is thought to repel insects and the designs are known as "jagua tattoos"

Jagua Body PaintingJagua is an important fruit in the life of Embera and Waounan people. It is used as a black dye to paint people's skins. The pigment remains embedded in the skin until the external layer is naturally exfoliated, generally lasting between 10 to 12 days. It is indelible dark blue or black, like a two-week tattoo. The jagua body painting is still in use for all celebrations and is one of the most enduring and important customs for both Waounan and Embera people.

Washing pots

Jagua is an important fruit in the life of the Embera and Waounan people. It is used as a black dye to paint people's skin. The pigment remains embedded in the skin until the external layer is naturally exfoliated, generally lasting 10 to 12 days. It is indelible dark blue or black, like a two-week tattoo. The jagua body painting is still used for all celebrations and is one of the most enduring and important customs for both the Waounan and Embera people. ConfusionI stopped at a grocery store in Panama City and purchased a quantity of food recommended by my guide to bring as gifts for the people of the village. Line upThe children lined up in an orderly fashion to receive juice and other treats purchased in Panama City. Grocery purchases Grocery purchases I stopped at a grocery store in Panama City and purchased a quantity of food recommended by my guide to bring as gifts for the people of the village. Mother and sonKieron Nelson 2015 "Vanishing Cultures Photography"